First. This is my first detailed post on here so bear with me. This is a detailed account of my MVP overhaul and hopefully someone can benefit from what I list here. I have been working on guns for about 35 years, part time, but each one is a challenge in its own way. I bought my MVP 223 18" barrel predator new in Jan 2016. Took it to the range with a 3x9 scope on it and was not impressed with the factory tolerances nor setup. Groups were 2-3" at 100 yrs. So, I determined to go thru the rifle and overhaul it front to back. 1. My trigger was lousy, so I completely disassembled the trigger, and put it back together minus the safety and minus the "accu-style" lever and spring. I polished some of the trigger parts. Pull is now smooth about 3 1/2#, clean break. 2. I shortened the barrel by 1/2" in my lathe, threaded it for 1/2-28, and recrowned the barrel. 3. I bought the aluminum mag well and trigger guard from Tromix of Inola, Oklahoma and installed these parts. Nice parts. Study your mag well, bedding pillars, and action fit and height, and magazine height. I ended up milling the tops of the pillars a few thousands and the top of the mag well. After fitting mine, I glass bedded the mag well, part of the trigger guard, front and rear of receiver area, and recoil lug. The rest of the barrel is free floated. See pic. 4. I bought a picatinny rail from Amazon, and redrilled the screw holes in the receiver to the next larger size screw. Also, check the fit of the rail or your scope bases to the receiver. They should be square and inline. 5. I drilled a 1/4" hold thru the wrist of the laminated stock and epoxied a 1/4" brass rod in the wrist. (just something I do) The line on the pic shows where the wrist pin goes, inside the stock. I removed the stock sling swivel studs, repositioned them, and fit my own sling swivel studs into the stock. I make heavy duty solid brass studs and nuts for sale. 6. The mag release lever was removed, all contact surfaces polished and assembled with much better results. I use all 20 round pmags and have good luck. 7. I disassembled the bolt, cleaned up the machining marks, polished a little and reassembled. The bolt release lever is modified slightly for a better fit in the stock. See pic. The top of the stock at the rear of the receiver cutout was too high and the bolt was dragging so the excess material was removed from the stock. I turned down the bolt handle to 1/4", lightly threaded, and installed an aftermarket remington style bolt knob, with epoxy. 8. Removed all blue from the barrel and receiver, sanded with 400 grit and sprayed with 2 coats of DuraCoat gray green. Duracoat hint. It is good stuff, but it needs to harden for a while before rough use. (30 days is good) 9. Stock was modified for a front bottom rail, sanded and painted with rattle can camo paint. 10. I bought a new '3 x 12', 30mm tube, 2nd focal plane scope and mounted it on the rifle. The results. My buddy, a better shooter than me, and I took it to the range for initial testing at 100 and 200 yards. With factory match ammo, 200 yard zero, we shot groups with holes touching to a little over an inch. We had a gusty 35 plus mph crosswind. Next time out is 400 and 600 yards. Finally. I don't necessarily recommend doing everything I did to your rifle. My advice is to carefully study the parts and understand the system, how it works, and what it would take to improve it. I was not happy with mine out of the box. Now, I am very satisfied. Feeding from the mag is good. I believe these rifles have a lot of potential and with a little or lot of work, you can see that potential. thanks for reading. Jim. Note: Just read my post again and I may not have been clear on something. We were shooting at 200 yards, not 100 yards, and had groups touching to just over an inch. 5/05/17.